By David White

Navigating a wine list can be daunting.

Even wine geeks are intimidated by the leather-bound tomes that so many restaurants hand out. When the wine list doesn’t land on the table with a thud, patrons are still met with unrecognizable regions and producers. Plus, no matter where you dine or how much you know, prices can be senseless.

Fortunately, deciphering a restaurant’s list doesn’t have to be stressful. Here are five simple tips.

Ask For Help

The era of the snooty sommelier is over. Today’s sommeliers are wine zealots, eager to share their passion and palates. So if the restaurant you’re visiting employs a wine professional, ask for advice. Most are keen to help patrons find the perfect wine, regardless of the price.

Be Brave

If you’re at a restaurant with an impressive wine list, seize the opportunity to be adventurous. Your dinner companions will be impressed with your courage, and you’ll learn something new.

If you like Chardonnay, for example, consider Viognier. If you like Sauvignon Blanc, try Torrontes or Albarino. If you typically order Cabernet, consider ordering Malbec or Sangiovese. And don’t be afraid of Merlot. Even though it’s become cool to bash the grape, Merlot can be as rich as Cabernet Sauvignon, and is generally more approachable.

If everyone at your table has ordered something different, opt for an unusual wine that’ll pair with virtually everything. For white, think Austrian Gruner Veltliner. For red, think Sicilian Nero d’Avola.

Look For Value

I recently chatted with Kathy Morgan MS – one of just 186 people worldwide to earn the “master sommelier” designation – and she insisted that good deals can be found virtually everywhere.

“Don’t be afraid to order cheaper wines, especially if the wine list was put together by a sommelier or a wine professional,” she explained. “If thought is put into the list, all the wines should be good.”

If there isn’t a sommelier, Morgan advises people to seek out wines from less popular regions. At steakhouses, for example, you can often find deals on Pinot Noir from France and the United States, as most patrons order bigger wines. And at every restaurant, wines from Spain typically offer a great value.

Try Some Glasses

Morgan is also convinced that skipping the bottle list can be a wise decision. “At restaurants with serious wine programs,” she explained, “sommeliers see wines by the glass as an introduction to their programs – they know that’s where people are going to get their first impression.”

Ordering by the glass also enables patrons to try a wine before committing to it – it’s not frowned upon to ask your server for a taste of something before ordering a full glass. Plus, ordering by the glass makes it easier to try a variety of wines at one meal.

Remember That You’re In Charge

Is your wine too warm? Do you feel pressured to spend more than you’d like? Is your server refilling your glass too quickly? If the answer to any of these questions is “yes,” speak up!

Restaurants are notorious for serving red wine too warm – reds should always be served slightly cool, at about 60-65 degrees. So if your wine tastes like it’s been sitting at room temperature, ask for an ice bucket or switch to a white wine – or beer.

If the sommelier is steering you towards something too expensive, there was probably a miscommunication. So say something. If you don’t want to let your guests know how much you’re spending, point to the price you’re thinking and ask for something similar.

Finally, don’t be embarrassed to ask your server to slow down. I always insist on finishing my glass of wine before it’s refilled. That way, I can track the wine’s evolution and better monitor how much I’ve consumed.

While there are countless other ways to navigate a restaurant’s wine program, these five tips should be easy to remember – and help elevate your next dining experience.

David White, a wine writer, is the founder and editor of Terroirist.com. His columns are housed at Wines.com.

By Nat Levy | Courtesy photos

Pacific Northwesterners spend our live spoiled with great beer. For most of us, Pyramid is a local equivalent to Miller Lite, a beer you can drink all day long. But just because you can venture down to Red Hook whenever you want, doesn’t mean there isn’t a whole world of great pints, just outside your front door. This month, I explored some of my favorite foreign beers. Some of these can be found at your local neighborhood market, while others require a trip halfway around the world.

Disclaimer – a lot of import beers grace our shelves and fridges on a regular basis, so I tried to stay away from the more well-known ones. Everyone loves a cool Guinness, or perhaps a Corona on one of our three hot days of the year, but that isn’t what this is about. I will make one exception to this rule for a beer that can be found pretty much everywhere, but is completely deserving of a mention.

Newcastle Nut Brown Ale, England

No, this tasty treat does not come from the town a couple miles south of here. Newcastle Nut Brown Ale is the gem of the Northeast-England town by the same name. Personally, I’ve never been a fan of darker beers – pass on the Guiness for me, I say over the coarse of boos – but this selection does it for me.

This beer is not only one of the greatest exports from England, but also helped coin one of the best drinking phrases known to man. How many times have you seen someone on TV tell their significant other they are planning on “walking the dog,” when instead, they just make a beeline to the pub for a drink. The phrase is so famous, that one of Newcastle’s favorite pubs is named The Dog.

It’s got the strong flavor that dark-beer fans love, but it’s not a meal in and of itself like a Guinness can be.

Mythos, Greece

Mythos Brewery is the second-largest brewery in Greece. The brewery created this hellenic lager, which many call Greece’s first authentic beer in 1997.  In its very first year of after, Mythos managed to capture second place in its category and third place in overall in national beer sales, in a market that is both difficult to break into and wary of new products.

Mythos is a lager characterized by its golden brown color. Don’t be surprised by Mythos’ fruity aroma. It masks the smooth taste of this Greek selection. Mythos’ brewers combine the traits found throughout countries like Germany, Ireland and Denmark. The smooth blonde flavor makes it a perfect option for the sunny days of summer.

Star & Club, Ghana

These are the Miller and Budweiser – but much tastier – in the coastal African nation of Ghana. Why on earth would I pick these you ask? Well, to give you a personal glimpse into my life, I spent the summer before my senior year of college in this wonderful nation, interning at their oldest newspaper (shoutout to the Statesman), and you guessed it, drinking a lot of Star and Club. With temperatures constantly in the 100s by the time we woke up at 7 a.m., and a sad shortage of treated drinking water at the time, these two beers provided much of our hydration. It also didn’t hurt our bunch of college kids who just forked over six grand for this trip, that a 24 oz bottle was a dollar pretty much everywhere.

Anyway, the greatness of these two beers doesn’t lie in their price and availability, but in their taste. People love to make up buzzwords to stand out from the pack when describing things they like (my favorite being the hyperbole used to classify professional athletes. “Extraterrestrial athleticism!” Do we know if aliens are athletic?). A term that gets thrown around loosely all the time is the word drinkability. Definitely not a real word, but a perfect description of these two great beers. You can pair them with pretty much anything because their flavors neither override nor get lost with food. In my searching to again find these tasty libations, the closest I’ve come is the Ghana Cafe in Washington D.C. But I don’t think I’ll be making that weekly trip on a reporter’s salary. If anyone knows where to find these beers, I’ll happily be your new drinking buddy.

Tsingtao, China

The legacy of Tsingtao, one of China’s most popular brands dates all the way back to 1903. It has been the top consumer export from the country for decades. And it has been the most popular Chinese beer in the United States since the two nations opened up trade relations in 1972.

Tsingtao is present in 62 countries throughout the world, and it is sold in more than 95 percent of Chinese restaurants throughout the United States.

Tsingtao Lager is an amber-colored, pilsner-style beer delivering a crisp, slightly malty flavor and a nutty sweet taste. Its refreshing flavor profile complements spicy or flavorful Asian cuisine. Tsingtao Lager is an authentic Asian beer that transforms any meal into a cultural experience. Tsingtao Lager exemplifies Asian cool – the fusion of traditional Chinese heritage and modern Western culture.

By Nat Levy

Just because it’s not New Year’s Eve doesn’t mean the season of celebration has ended. Valentine’s Day is just around the corner, and we’re not too far away from the Mom/Dad/Grad triumvirate that kicks off many a summer party.

This specialized wine uses only three grapes in its production – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

Initially, no wine grown outside France’s champagne region was allowed to use the name. But a number of international treaties allow growers in the U.S. and other countries to sparingly sport the name champagne.

Few, if any, wineries in Washington call their products champagne, instead opting to name them sparkling wine.

Now that you know what you’re getting into, it’s time to pick up a local bottle of bubbly in preparation for your next big celebration.

Domaine Ste. Michelle, Paterson

www.domaine-ste-michelle.com

Wines from Columbia Valley nearly swept the sparkling wines category at the 2011 Seattle Wine Awards. Paterson-based Domaine Ste. Michelle made a particularly strong showing with its variety of affordable sparkling wines. Most of the Domaine Ste. Michelle wines can be found for $12 or less. At that price, they are wines to be enjoyed virtually every day of the week. But they also are among the most versatile and food-friendly wines on the market. For fans of dry varieties, like me, the Blanc De Blanc is a great call. It comes from 100 percent Chardonnay groups, and goes well with a nice cheese spread.

Treveri Cellars, Yakima

www.trevericellars.com

Another Columbia Valley sparkling wine specialist, Treveri Cellars has something for everyone. Treveri Cellars has picked up endless awards from local tasters, but the ultimate compliment came a few weeks ago. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton’s personal chef tasted the wine late last year and loved it so much that it became the official drink of White House holiday parties. These offerings are available at most of the Seattle area’s Whole Foods stores. If it’s good enough for President Obama, it’s good enough for you.

Mountain Dome, Spokane

www.mountaindome.com

This Spokane institution is the largest family-owned winery in the Pacific Northwest. Though a small enterprise when it opened in 1984, Mountain Dome has slowly built a national reputation. Its wines can be found in more than 27 states and growing. The price is right, too. Mountain Dome’s non-vintage Brut is the cheapest of the selection, pricing out at about $15. Other wines are priced as much as $35 to $40. If you’re looking for a great sparkling wine without losing that mom-and-pop feel, Mountain Dome is your place.

By Nat Levy

The holidays have come and gone, and it’s time to hunker in for the rest of the winter. Between ski trips and Valentine’s Day there are still a lot of desserts to be had. But who can keep drinking all that coffee with every slice of cake? The new year is a time for resolutions, and this year it’s time to experiment with a new desert drink: port.

Originating in Portugal’s Douro Valley in the northern provinces, port wine is about as sweet as it gets. Typically red wines, port varieties are often high in alcohol content and residual sugars, with a lingering fruity flavor.

Technically, if what you are drinking isn’t from Portugal it’s not true port, much like it’s only champagne if made in the specific region of France. But numerous countries, including the United States have perfected the process. In fact, a number of Washington wineries turn out some delicious port-like wine flavors.

Knipprath Cellars, Spokane

knipprath-cellars.com

This relatively young winery, which began full-time operations in 1999, doesn’t lack for flavor and variety. Knipprath Cellars specializes in port offerings with seven different kinds. Check out their LaV port that features merlot aged with vanilla beans imported from Mexico and Madagascar. Yes, this bottle sounds too good to be true, but it’s all there, and you won’t even break the bank ordering one. A 375 ml bottle goes for $17.99 and a 750 ml liter bottle will cost you $29.99.

Eleven Winery, Bainbridge Island

elevenwinery.com

You don’t have to go all the way out to Eastern Washington to experience this fine winery. Eleven Winery is just a short ferry ride away and features port offerings for both the red and white wine aficionados. The owners speak highly of the Sweet Sarah, named for the owner Matt Albee’s wife Sarah, because as he says, “She is the sweetest of them all.” Eleven has been making port since 2004, and it features tasting rooms in both Bainbridge and Poulsbo.

Paradisos del Sol, Zillah

paradisosdelsol.com

This Yakima Valley winery is well-known for its “Zort” wine, a zinfandel-based port. This wine is a limited edition, and is meant for small groups. In an interview with Washington Magazine, Paradisos owner Paul Vandenberg admits to making ruby port-style wines so his wife has a drink to pair with her dark chocolate. Vandenberg characterizes his port as something to be enjoyed “in front of a fire on a howling winter night while releasing its captive sunshine. Its bramble fruit and spicy aromatics evoke summer in the berry patch with your lover.”

By Nat Levy | Courtesy Photos

The temperature’s dropping, the sun’s going down earlier and the Christmas lights are peaking out. You know what that means, hot drinks season has come. Whether you’re huddling around a fire, or trying to just get through your office Christmas party, a good hot drink cures all. Here are a few of our faves, including recipes.

Hot Apple Pie

Apple cider in and of itself is iconic of the holidays. Add booze and even more sweet taste, and you’ve got a picture of perfection. To make this drink, boil a gallon of apple cider, and add cloves and an orange cut into quarters. Add 2 oz. of Tuaca, a brandy-based Italian liqueur. Fill the rest of your cup with the hot cider and toss in a Cinnamon stick or two. Top with whipped cream and dust with ground cinnamon.

Butter Baby

Who doesn’t love getting cozy by the fire and warming up with a nice hot chocolate? Now you can add a little pop to this classic drink. Drop an ounce of butterscotch schnapps into a coffee mug, and fill it with hot chocolate, homemade preferred. Next just top it off with some whip cream and sprinkle a few chocolate flakes on top.

Southern Egg Nog

This family classic varies not only from region to region, but from house to house. Heat milk in a saucepan over boiling water, but do not boil. Beat three eggs and one cup sugar well. Pour hot milk slowly over the egg mixture (will curdle if mixed too fast). Put back in saucepan and cook over hot water for a few minutes. Sprinkle in a teaspoon of vanilla and quarter teaspoons of cinnamon and nutmeg then beat occasionally while cooling. Drop in a shot or two of rum, brandy or bourbon as the mixture cools.

Hot buttered rum

This favorite is a challenging yet rewarding adventure. Bring two cups of water, half a stick of butter, a quarter-cup of brown sugar, a teaspoon of cinnamon, half a teaspoon of nutmeg, cloves, and salt to a boil in a 1 1/2- to 2-quart saucepan over moderately high heat. Reduce heat and simmer, whisking occasionally, 10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in rum.

By Nat Levy | Courtesy Photo

Thanksgiving is, by far, my favorite day of the year. It’s got my three favorite “Fs” – family, food and football, in that order.

I love the turkey, gravy, potatoes, stuffing, pumpkin pie and the infinite other culinary delights that come with them. And the tryptophan-induced slumber that night is the best I get all season.
Much of the planning for this day centers on the food choices. Turkey or ham? Sweet potatoes, or regular? But another important element of the Thanksgiving feast is the wine.

Now the combinations at the dinner table on Turkey Day obviously vary quite a bit. If you want to achieve the perfect mix of food and drink for that special evening, you have to mind the flavors and the combinations that they create. Here are a few possible combinations in case you are planning your meal and fumbling with the choice of beverage.

Turkey – The turkey dinner is the staple of Thanksgiving. The head of the table carves the bird for all to eat, an iconic image. Experts and amateurs alike recommend a semi-sweet wine such as a dry riesling. The dry selection is crisp and smooth, and doesn’t overwhelm the subtle flavor of the turkey.  Another option is the Gewürztraminer, a balanced, yet sweet option that is very drinkable to connoisseurs and newbies, too.

Potatoes, gravy, stuffing – These side dishes are often as important as the turkey. Stuffing is definitely one of the best parts of the Thanksgiving meal, and I like to slather all the dishes in gravy. If your primary aim is to match your wine selection to these flavors, you need to go with something a little more bold, sweet. A fruity Merlot could be the answer, or if the flavor’s not strong enough, a Syrah (Shiraz) makes a good match. The full-bodied flavors of these wines can compete with the strong tastes of mashed potatoes, gravy and stuffing.

Dessert – If you’re not too stuffed from dinner, it’s time to grab a tasty dessert. For my purposes, we’re going to focus on the classic Thanksgiving finale: pumpkin pie. If you want to skip the coffee with desert, give the Muscat Canelli a shot. It’s got the rich full flavor that can stand up to the powerful spice of a great slice of pumpkin pie.

Experts say not to over think these selections. Tom Wilson, of Woodinville-based Cheateu Ste. Michelle, said a couple different options for each portion of the meal will get the job done. In the end, it’s important to remember the culinary focus of the Thanksgiving meal.

“It’s a food celebration,” he said. “Wine is there to complement the food.”

By Nat Levy

As the 80 and 90-degree sun-splashed days cool down, and skies begin to gray, our collective winter-phobia begins to set in. But not so fast; we still have the fall. It’s a time full of foliage and football, and pumpkin is in everything. But there is one more treat we all look forward to this time of year, hard cider. Bridging the gap from light summer beers and winter-time hot drinks, hard cider is a highlight of the season.

Despite its reputation for apples, Washington is a bit thin on hard cider breweries, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t options

Alpenfire Orchards
220 Pocket Lane, Port Townsend
(360) 379-8915
alpenfirecider.com
Located in beautiful Port Townsend, Alpenfire claims to be the sole organic cider brewery in the state. The brewery is only two years old, but the owners have long held a passion for hard cider, dating back to their college days in the 1970s. They have created a variety of options including critically acclaimed Organic Pirate’s Plank “Bone Dry” Cider ($12.50 a bottle, $135 a case). It can be found at stores and bars throughout the Seattle area, including Pete’s Wines Eastside and Whole Foods on Lake Bellevue Drive in Bellevue.

Red Barn Cider
16163 State Route 536, Mount Vernon
(206) 321-9424
redbarncider.com
Red Barn Cider is located deep in the heart of apple country in Mount Vernon. Red Barn features a variety of choices, based on Jonagold apples, some of the most flavorful in the state. With seven different types of cider, Red Barn can satisfy everyone, from those with the taste for the driest varieties to a sweet cider aficionado. You can find any of Red Barn’s flavors at QFC on Bellevue Way and in Crossroads.

Westcott Bay Cider
12 Anderson Lane, San Juan Island
(360) 378-3880
westcottbaycider.com
With more history than you can ask for, Westcott has been a powerhouse in the cider industry for more than a decade. San Juan is well known for its fruit producing exploits, and Westcott sits on an orchard that has been in operation since the 1870s. With only three brands of cider, Westcott doesn’t offer the kind of variety other places boast, but what it does produce is well received. You can order one of each of the three varieties – dry, very dry and medium sweet – for $24 before shipping. Or you can head over to Whole Foods in Bellevue and pick up a bottle.

By Andy Perdue and Eric Degerman, Wine Press Northwest

With more than 80 wineries and tasting rooms in Woodinville, it’s increasingly difficult to stand out, especially with so many great producers within a few miles of each other, so you need to consistently make outstanding wine and give consumers a reason to remember you.

That’s exactly what Rod and Leslie Balsley have been doing since they launched William Church Winery in 2005. Two years ago, the winery in the “warehouse district” of Woodinville got our attention when its 2008 Viognier and 2007 Malbec earned top awards in our year-end best-of-the-best competition. That’s not something we see from wineries we’ve barely heard of.

And it wasn’t a fluke. The Balsleys’ wines continue to show well in our blind tastings as well as other competitions. This spring, their Viognier won double gold and 2 Spires red blend earned gold at the Seattle Wine Awards, continuing their string of award-winning wines.

The Balsleys came up with their winery’s name by honoring their fathers. Rod’s dad’s name was William, and Leslie’s dad’s middle name was Church. They’ve also played off “Church” with such wines as “Bishop’s Blend” and “Bad Habit.” Their label artwork represents windows found in medieval cathedrals found in France, where Leslie was born.

Their superb wines are no accident. Rather, the Balsleys have managed to procure grapes from some of Washington’s top vineyards, including Stillwater Creek, Red Willow, Conner Lee, Gamache and Dineen, using them to craft 2,000 cases of wine.

Their wines should be easy to find in the Puget Sound market, where they are sold in more than 60 stores. If your favorite wine merchant doesn’t carry William Church, give the winery a call at 425-427-0764.
Here are a few William Church wines we’ve tasted recently.

William Church Winery 2007 Molly’s Vintage Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $29: They’ve named this bottling in support of a late friend who launched a foundation for diabetes and transplant research. The Balsleys will donate some of the proceeds from this bottling.

William Church Winery 2008 Jennifer’s Vintage Syrah, Columbia Valley, $25: Three highly regarded vineyards — Dineen, Red Willow and Stillwater Creek — play significant roles in this opulent offering. The nose features hints of blackberry jam, black pepper, Aussie black licorice, smoked ham hock and celery leaf. Many features become capitalized on the palate, starting with a sweet blackberry approach, rolling acidity and thick tannins. A slice of chocolate cake with raspberry jam shows up, along with vanilla extract. Enjoy with a porterhouse steak or pork bellies with cracklings.

William Church Winery 2008 Philip’s Vintage Gamache Vineyard Malbec, Columbia Valley, $30: William Church releases its third vintage of Malbec, this from the Columbia Basin, and it’s a bit on the hedonistic side. The nose sends out hints of black cherry, strawberry, root beer, tar and Cocoa Puffs. The palate comes soaked with sweet cherries, Raisinets and white pepper.

William Church Winery 2007 Amy’s Vintage Sur La Mer, Columbia Valley, $28: This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Merlot (20%), Cabernet Franc (20%), Malbec (10%) and Petit Verdot is named after the French birthplace of winery co-owner Leslie Balsley. A warm Milk Dud joins blackberry, cherry and oregano aromas. The drink is a quaffer of the same fruit, all spice and chalkboard dust. Enjoy with braised buffalo chuck roast.

William Church Winery 2008 Max’s Vintage Bishop’s Blend, Columbia Valley, $20: Unofficially, this is viewed as the “cellar blend” at the Woodinville, Wash., winery. The components are Cabernet Sauvignon (39%), Malbec (38%), Syrah (11%), Merlot (9%) and Cabernet Franc, and together they make up a wine that’s light and easy to get into. Aromas include hints of raspberry juice, Hershey’s Syrup, cinnamon and slate. It’s a full-flavored drink of blackberry jam, gobs of chocolate, pomegranate acidity and some lime in the finish. The tannin level is almost imperceptible.

Andy Perdue and Eric Degerman are the editors of Wine Press Northwest. Get the newest Northwest wine reviews at www.winepressnw.com/freshpress.

By Andy Perdue and Eric Degerman, Wine Press Northwest

Who doesn’t like a bargain, especially in this economy? Wine lovers for certain. While there is talk around the American (and global) wine industry that wine drinkers’ wallets are loosening up ever so slightly, the sweet spot for wine remains under $20 — and that’s good for those of us who love a great bottle of wine that tastes like twice the price.

While Northwest wines are not at the low, low end of price scales (box, jug or Two Buck Chuck range), there are plenty of good bargains that will help you keep your dollars — and regional pride — close to home. We’ve tasted these wines recently, and all are delicious. They are in the right price range to keep you from feeling guilty about opening them any night of the week.

Ste. Chapelle 2009 Chateau Series Soft Red, Snake River Valley, $7: This off-dry offering is the most popular red wine made in Idaho. There’s complexity in the aromas of crushed strawberry, horehound and dried oregano. The palate could be mistaken for an adult Hawaiian Punch, bringing more strawberry and some blueberry with lemon bar creaminess and acidity.

Airfield Estates 2008 Runway Vineyard Syrah, Yakima Valley, $10: Prosser, Wash., winemaker Marcus Miller puts his wines in screwcap like the Aussies would a Shiraz, and he’s priced it not much north of one. There’s a smoky nuttiness to the nose, which includes blackberry jam, black cherry, molasses and vanilla extract. On the attack, it’s a lighter-styled Syrah, leading with boysenberry and blueberry. There’s a nice little girth to the drink, and it should handle richly flavored meats such as ribs or a juicy steak.

McKinley Springs Winery 2008 Bombing Range Red, Horse Heaven Hills, $12: The Andrews family still picks up .50-caliber casings left behind in their vineyards from the days when their farm served as a bombing range during World War II. Winemaker Doug Rowell nailed the coordinates with this blend. Black cherry jam, Graham cracker, menthol, cedar and black licorice aromas lead the way. There’s fluidity to the satisfying structure on the palate with cherry pie, pomegranate, boysenberry, cassis and minerality.

Buried Cane 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, $13: From the owners of Cadaretta in Walla Walla comes this widely distributed, fruit-forward value that stays true to the variety with an easy drink of big cherry notes, crushed leaf, eucalyptus and some grip at the end.
Three Rivers Winery 2008 River’s Red, Columbia Valley, $14: This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Tempranillo, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot is a great bargain from the Walla Walla Valley. Cordial cherry, plum, orange peel and eucalyptus notes join up in a creamy and juicy drink. Tannins gradually build to add texture and length.

Columbia Crest 2008 H3 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $15: The largest winery in the Northwest was also the first to set up shop in the Horse Heaven Hills. Here’s the fourth vintage of this label, and it’s a doozy from the start with aromas of cassis, black cherry, roasted meat, Dutch chocolate and green tea. The drink starts with a dollop of black currant jam, backed by pomegranate and raspberry.
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery 2008 Barrel Select Sangiovese, Yakima Valley, $15: Exotic wood notes carry down into the aromas of Van cherry and raspberry. There’s blackberry, molasses and beef juice flavors, enjoyable acidity and bittersweet chocolate in its finish of tar and molasses.

Troon Vineyard 2009 Trifecta Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $15: This Southern Oregon producer brought in grapes from the Eola-Amity Hills and Willamette Valley and blended in just a touch of Zinfandel. The resulting wine shows off aromas of cherries, olives and sweet herbs, followed by flavors of marionberries.

Gary Horner

By Andy Perdue and Eric Degerman, Wine Press Northwest

In May 2006, Oregon pioneer Dick Erath shocked the Northwest wine world by selling his successful operation to Ste Michelle Wine Estates. A half-decade later, Erath Winery is thriving, producing some of the state’s greatest and most consistent red and white wines.

Erath moved to Oregon in 1968 after learning to make wine in California, purchased land and began to grow wine grapes. In 1972, he launched his winery, producing fewer than 300 cases of wine. By 1975, he joined forces with Cal Knudsen, and they changed the name of the winery to Knudsen-Erath (some 13 years later, Erath bought out his partner and changed the name back to Erath). Since 2002, Gary Horner has been the winemaker at Erath.

Ste. Michelle’s purchase of Erath marked the Washington giant’s entry into the Oregon wine industry, and it has provided Horner with the resources to craft great wines while at the same time giving him the space to be creative. One of Horner’s most remarkable projects involves Prince Hill, a vineyard Erath planted in 1983. Using grapes from the vaunted 2008 vintage, Horner crafted no fewer than four Pinot Noirs from Prince Hill, three of which are rare clonal-designated wines. (A fifth wine, the Estate Selection Pinot Noir, also uses Prince Hill grapes.)

Meanwhile, founder Dick Erath has moved to Arizona — not to retire but to pioneer grape growing and winemaking again.
Here are some Erath Pinot Noirs we’ve recently tasted:

Erath Winery 2008 Prince Hill Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, $45: This is a youthful and spicy wine with aromas of violets and cranberries, followed by flavors of cherries and vanilla, all backed with just-right tannins.

Erath Winery 2008 Prince Hill 777 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, $50: The 777 Dijon clone is not often thought of as a version of Pinot Noir that can stand alone, but it is beautiful and alluring in this bottling. It opens with aromas of fresh raspberries, strawberries, violets, hazelnuts and Graham crackers, followed by plush, delicious flavors of wild strawberries and bright red cherries, all backed with smooth, elegant and understated tannins.

Erath Winery 2008 Prince Hill 115 Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, $50: This is made from the Dijon 115 clone, a version of Pinot Noir that tends to reveal darker, more powerful fruit. This wine offers elegant aromas of cherries, raspberries and vanilla, followed by beautifully balanced flavors of Rainier cherries and cranberries, all backed up with bright acidity and refined tannins.

Erath Winery 2008 Prince Hill Pommard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, $50: The Pommard clone of Pinot Noir has been a workhorse in Oregon for the better part of four decades. This wine reveals classic aromas of lavender, vanilla and strawberries, followed by long, rich flavors of ripe raspberries, cherries and minerally earth.

Erath Winery 2008 Leland Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $50: Leland Vineyard near Oregon City has been a staple for Erath for more than two decades. This opens with complex aromas of cinnamon, raspberries, cherries and chocolate. On the palate, the flavors include classic notes of high-toned red fruit with hints of oak. It’s the velvety, ethereal texture that raises this wine above others.

Erath Winery 2008 Knight’s Gambit Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, $47: Knight’s Gambit, a vineyard in the Dundee Hills, was planted in 1988, with additional vines added in 2001. This reveals aromas of slate, pie cherries, boysenberries and forest floor, followed by pleasurable flavors of silky cherries and blueberries.

Erath Winery 2008 Estate Selection Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $34: Horner uses grapes from four vineyards, with the bulk coming from Knight’s Gambit and Prince Hill. The resulting wine reveals aromas of boysenberries, blueberries and delicate oak, followed by flavors of cherries, vanilla and a hint of citrus.

Andy Perdue and Eric Degerman are the editors of Wine Press Northwest magazine. For more information, go to www.winepressnw.com.