By Celeste Gracey

John Howie fans have cause to throw a dinner party this month, and it has nothing to do with successful weight-loss resolutions.

At least not if you’re a fan of Seastar Restaurant’s lobster mac and cheese.

Howie, Seastar chef and owner of a namesake steakhouse in Bellevue, published his first cookbook this winter, “Passion & Palate” ($42).

A 10-year itch satisfied, the book is a compilation of his eclectic obsession with gourmet food, he says.

It’s also a response to the daily requests he gets for recipes from guests, and it certainly catalogs his most popular creations.

The focus of the book is simple, what John Howie likes to eat best.

Seafood is his specialty, and the book’s gem is found in its fish section. The value isn’t in the ingredients list, which can be long where salsas and relishes are concerned, but it’s in his precise instructions for cooking fish.

His master recipe, Parmigiano-crusted Halibut, guides cooks through the precise methods for breading and frying to perfection. At Seastar, the fish is filleted thin and flash-seared, so it spends little time on the grill.

“The key is don’t overcook your fish,” he says. “You can always go back and add a little more heat.”

At times the ingredient lists, which include black truffles and quail eggs, can be intimidating, but he attempts to set the reader at ease with a glossary of the rarest ingredients and how to find them.

To make sure his recipe translates from a busy restaurant kitchen to a home kitchen, Howie assembled a team of about 350 testers.

Admittedly, most of the recipes in the book, including a whole section on ceviche and a recipe for ancho chili-rubbed salmon with a sweet chili hollandaise, are meant to challenge the average cook. But he also included a few simple recipes aimed to replace Taco Tuesday, including his Texas-style chili, made with pineapple juice.

He also brings readers back to the basics with several pages dedicated to homemade soup stocks and salad dressings.

A short autobiography recalls the tragic death of his father at a young age and how he ended up in foster care for a few weeks while his mother battled an alcohol addiction.

The rest of the story recalls how the self-taught chef learned from experience and succeeded through hard work.

By Nat Levy | Courtesy Photos

The temperature’s dropping, the sun’s going down earlier and the Christmas lights are peaking out. You know what that means, hot drinks season has come. Whether you’re huddling around a fire, or trying to just get through your office Christmas party, a good hot drink cures all. Here are a few of our faves, including recipes.

Hot Apple Pie

Apple cider in and of itself is iconic of the holidays. Add booze and even more sweet taste, and you’ve got a picture of perfection. To make this drink, boil a gallon of apple cider, and add cloves and an orange cut into quarters. Add 2 oz. of Tuaca, a brandy-based Italian liqueur. Fill the rest of your cup with the hot cider and toss in a Cinnamon stick or two. Top with whipped cream and dust with ground cinnamon.

Butter Baby

Who doesn’t love getting cozy by the fire and warming up with a nice hot chocolate? Now you can add a little pop to this classic drink. Drop an ounce of butterscotch schnapps into a coffee mug, and fill it with hot chocolate, homemade preferred. Next just top it off with some whip cream and sprinkle a few chocolate flakes on top.

Southern Egg Nog

This family classic varies not only from region to region, but from house to house. Heat milk in a saucepan over boiling water, but do not boil. Beat three eggs and one cup sugar well. Pour hot milk slowly over the egg mixture (will curdle if mixed too fast). Put back in saucepan and cook over hot water for a few minutes. Sprinkle in a teaspoon of vanilla and quarter teaspoons of cinnamon and nutmeg then beat occasionally while cooling. Drop in a shot or two of rum, brandy or bourbon as the mixture cools.

Hot buttered rum

This favorite is a challenging yet rewarding adventure. Bring two cups of water, half a stick of butter, a quarter-cup of brown sugar, a teaspoon of cinnamon, half a teaspoon of nutmeg, cloves, and salt to a boil in a 1 1/2- to 2-quart saucepan over moderately high heat. Reduce heat and simmer, whisking occasionally, 10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in rum.

By Celeste Gracey | Photos by Chad Coleman

Admit it – the only time of year most people bake is during the holiday season. It’s usually an old-family-favorite recipe that no one else seems to make just right.

A few years ago, I dug out my mom’s Russian Tea Cake recipe and proudly brought the holiday cookies to a party. When I arrived, there was such a calamity of different family recipes, I hardly had room between the candy cane brownies and hand-twisted cookies to set down my plate.

It made me wonder, if every family in my circle of friends had wildly different holiday treats, how different must other countries be? So I studied popular recipes from around the world and picked a few favorites to share.

Try mixing your recipes up a bit this season, or perhaps just make a couple more. After all, my mom isn’t Russian, but somewhere along the line her experiment became my tradition.

Brigadeiros

Portugal and Brazil

Named for a famous 1940’s Brigadier General named Eduardo Gomes, who loved chocolate, these are a South American-type truffle that are popular at most celebrations. Like many Brazilian desserts, this one uses sweetened condensed milk, giving the center a soft carmelly inside. While they’re traditionally rolled in chocolate sprinkles, try substituting for coconut or something festive.

Ingredients

1 14-ounce can of sweetened condensed milk

4 Tbsp cocoa powder

1/4 tsp salt

3 Tbsp butter

1 tsp vanilla

Chocolate sprinkles

Little paper or tin liners for serving

Preparation

Heat the sweetened condensed milk in a heavy pan over medium-low heat. Stir constantly for 10-15 minutes, keeping the mixture barely at a boil, so it doesn’t burn. When the mixture becomes thick and begins to pull away from the pan, pull it off the heat and stir in the butter and vanilla.

Slide the mixture into a bowl, but don’t leave the residue on the bottom of the pan. Chill for about 20-30 minutes. Then with buttered hands, roll 1-inch balls in your palm, and then roll them into the chocolate sprinkles, covering the gooey chocolate completely. Place them in the liners, and store them in a refrigerator until serving.

Linzer Schnitten

Germany

These beautiful German tortes are cut into cookie bars, making a perfect celebration food to share. Red jam looks like stained glass windows beneath lattice work and the fruit balances with spicy dough. Making them is similar to rolling out pie crust. It may be more work than a drop cookie, but they’re sure to impress guests.

Ingredients

3/4 cup butter

1 1/2 cups sugar

2 eggs

3 1/2 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

2 teaspoons cinnamon

1 teaspoon powdered cloves

1 t finely grated rind and juice of 1 lemon

1/4 teaspoon salt

A jar of your favorite jam

For the glaze

1 egg

3/4 cup sugar

Make sure the butter is soft, but not melted. Cream together the butter and sugar in a mixer, then add the eggs.

In a separate bowl sift together the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, cloves and salt. Then add the dry ingredients to the wet and incorporate barely. Making sure only to use the yellow part of the rind, add it and the lemon and mix until it’s all incorporated.

Preparation

Pull the dough from the mixer and knead it into a ball. Cover it with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Heat the oven to 375 degrees.

On a lightly-floured board, split the dough in half. Roll one half into a ball, and working slowly with a rolling pin, roll the dough out evenly until it’s about 1/2 inch thick. Try to form a square by cutting off the round edges and reincorporating the dough.

Spread the jam thickly across the top of the dough.

Roll out the second ball, making it longer. Using a knife cut thin strips for a lattice top.

Spacing the strips about 1/2-inch apart, lay them on top of the jam in each direction.

Bake on a cookie sheet for 15-20 minutes, or until lightly brown on top.

Beat together the egg and sugar, and quickly drizzle the mixture on top while the baked dough is still hot.

BY CELESTE GRACEY | Photos by Ryan Dearth

It’s not about the bird, it’s what you stuff it with.

Skip the cardboard boxes of pre-seasoned bread cubes, and try making the Thanksgiving favorite from scratch this year.

Thanksgiving is about the sides, at least for Chef Carol Dearth, from the Bellevue-based cooking school, Sizzleworks. She offered a few recipes and several tips.

For those who swear by stuffing cooked inside the turkey, make sure it gets to 160 degrees or it could make your guests ill.

Often by the time the stuffing is done, the bird has been overcooked, so Dearth makes her stuffing in a casserole dish instead. It also makes the dressing fluffier with a crispy top.

For those who like the pressed dense stuffing that comes from inside the turkey’s juicy bosom, that texture can be replicated in a casserole dish by mixing in a raw egg before baking.
To keep the bird flavorful, stuff it with onion, herbs or a lemon that has been pierced with a meat fork. Rub the inside cavity with pepper and salt. Just don’t eat any of the seasonings, unless they get to 160 degrees.

Most stuffings are made with either rice or bread as a base. The South tends to like using corn bread too, Dearth says.

It’s Thanksgiving, so splurge a little on a fresh artisan loaf of bread. Cut the loaf into cubes and let them dry over night on a cookie sheet or use an oven to speed up the process.
The stock is also an important ingredient. Making it from scratch is easy and virtually free. Just use the giblets the turkey comes with.

Vegetarians seeking to celebrate can easily fill a squash with the stuffing as a substitute to a turkey. Try a small pumpkin or a colorful acorn squash.

Dearth plans to post several more Thanksgiving recipes on her blog, www.thesizzleworks.com/blog.

CLASSIC BREAD STUFFING
3 tbsp olive oil
1 – 2-pound loaf of good quality sourdough bread. Cut into 1-inch cubes
1 1/2 pounds of Italian sweet or hot sausage, casing removed (optional)
2 cups chopped onions, medium dice
4 stalks celery, medium dice
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp poultry seasoning, or 1/4 cup chopped fresh herbs such as thyme, oregano and basil
Fresh ground pepper and kosher salt to taste
1 1/2 cup chicken stock heated + about 1 cup extra for moistening stuffing before baking

Direction
Preheat oven to 350 F.
Place bread cubes on two ungreased baking sheets. Bake until cubes are dry but not hard, turning occasionally.
Heat olive oil in a heavy large skillet over medium-high heat.
Add sausage and cook through, breaking up with the back of the fork. Cook until pink is gone. Add onions, celery, garlic, poultry seasoning (add dry seasoning here, or fresh herbs with the stock) and 1/2 teaspoon salt; saute until onions and celery are soft. Transfer to a large bowl. Stir in bread cubes. Toss to blend, add fresh herbs if using, and then add stock; season with salt and pepper.
To bake separately, generously butter a 13×9 inch-baking dish. Add enough extra stock to stuffing to moisten. Transfer stuffing to baking dish. Cover with buttered foil, buttered side down. Bake until heated through, about 45 minutes. Remove foil and bake until crisp and golden, about 20 minutes longer. Serves 12.
CRAB STUFFING
1 cup melted butter (1 stick)
2-4 teaspoons pesto
4 cups soft bread crumbs
1/2 cup minced onion
1/2 pound cooked crab (optional)
1/2 cup chopped red bell pepper
2 tablespoons minced parsley
2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard
2 teaspoons Worchestershire sauce
6 tablespoons lemon juice
dash Tabasco
1/2 cup vegetable stock
Parmesan cheese

Directions
Preheat oven to 375 F.
Stir pesto into the melted butter; set aside.
Combine bread crumbs, onion, crab, peppers, parsley, mustard, Worchestershire sauce, lemon juice and Tabasco. Drizzle stock over top, toss to combine. Then drizzle butter/pesto mixture over and fold in. Transfer mixture to a shallow baking dish; sprinkle with Parmesan. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until top is golden brown. Serves 6-8.

WILD RICE STUFFING WITH PEARS, CRANBERRIES AND TOASTED HAZELNUTS
2 cups vegetable or low-sodium chicken broth
1 cup wild rice blend
2 tablespoons butter
2 fresh ripe pears, cut into dice
1/4 cup hazelnuts, coarsely chopped
2 shallots, finely chopped
1/2 small rib celery, finely diced
2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme leaves
large pinch of salt
1/4 cup dried cranberries
2 tablespoons minced chives

Directions
In medium saucepan, bring stock to boil. Add rice blend; return to boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer until rice is fully cooked, 40 to 45 minutes. Turn rice into medium heat-proof bowl; fluff with fork.

Meanwhile, heat the butter in medium skillet over medium heat. Add the pears and toss to coat with the butter. Cook slowly, until the pears begin to brown. Add hazelnuts, toss and stir, toasting them until they become fragrant and nutty. Then add shallots, celery, thyme and salt; saute until softened, 3 to 4 minutes longer. Remove from heat and fold into rice, with the cranberries and chives. Keep warm until serving time, or cool and use as stuffing for fowl. Garnish with additional minced chives.

Makes about 3 cups stuffing.

BY CELESTE GRACEY | PHOTOS BY CHAD COLEMAN

Perhaps my favorite time to visit downtown Bellevue isn’t with the flashy mini skirts and shiny shoes that flood the sidewalks on a Friday night.

It’s the next morning, when the wave of Eastsiders has receded, and bankers and techies are at home catching up on sleep.

Saturday morning is the one time during the week, where the only people left are West Bellevue residents. They creep down from their condo towers, obviously disheveled from partying, or they walk to town with their families, claiming their favorite spots.

Breakfast in Bellevue is my favorite, because as a West Bellevue resident, it’s the one time I can look to the surrounding tables and know with some certainty that they are, in fact, my neighbors.

This guide is more about where to find breakfast in downtown Bellevue, aside from hotels and Starbucks, than it is about what’s the absolute best.

Every few months a restaurant adds breakfast, and another removes it. Some places might be a surprise to some. My favorite place is better known for its whisky than its waffles. I decided to leave out a few Asian places, which serve clever rice bowls topped with eggs, and Mexican, simply because I haven’t the space to share this new discovery. This guide is also by no means comprehensive. Every few months a restaurant adds breakfast, and another takes it away. I’m always on the hunt for a new place.

Lot No. 3
A hipster whisky bar by night, Lot. No. 3 has comfort food that surprises, even for breakfast.
In the morning, its tall draperies are drawn back to reveal deep leather sofas, perfect for reading and sipping on perhaps the best black coffee in town.

While the menu is short, it changes seasonally.

Its Eggs Benedict (pictured) varieties change the most, but the dish is a favorite. The hollandaise has a tart lemon finish, and the eggs are poached perfectly, leaving a thick yolk to drizzle down the muffin.

The pork belly version is a fun alternative to canadian bacon rounds. The salty meat is crisp on the outside and pulls apart in the middle.

Pumpkin pancakes are slated to replace their lemon-ricotta pancakes (pictured) this October, but if the lemon flapjacks are any indication of flavor, they’re worth a try.

If you order the malted waffles, take a moment to consider the taste of the flour. Its boxes hold little bits of fleur de sel, which balance the sweetness of real maple syrup. Don’t forget to order a side of candied bacon, which they serve as an appetizer at night.

The only downside to Lot No. 3 is consistency. My first order of home fries were cold and stiff, a crime never since repeated. My pancakes have been both massive blobs and round little circles.

Gilbert’s on Main
A well-known bagel deli, Gilbert’s is a rightful staple for the Main Street neighborhood.

Marked by white adirondack chairs and true sidewalk dining, don’t let its curious sandwich combinations pull you away from the breakfast board.

Gluten lovers can find satisfaction in their bagels, which are soft and airy. They come toasted with cream cheese and jam. Arrive early to ensure your choice.

A favorite is the pesto, which comes with a whole slice of tomato baked on top.

Omelets and scrambles, which are at least twice the size they promise, are filled and mixed to the max with goodies.

The trick is to show up on a weekday, where “one” egg omelets and scrambles are only $5. They come with a fresh bagel.
The lox and cream cheese, a classic deli selection, is a good way to treat yourself. Ask, and they’ll top your bagels with just about anything.

The only downside is their scrambles have turned out a bit dry, so stick to the ones with cheese.

Chace’s Pancake Corral
Kind waiters with just the right amount of sass and endless cups of coffee served in old-fashioned brown mugs are probably the finest attributes to Chace’s.

Nestled between the biggest West Bellevue neighborhoods, this neighborhood hangout is perhaps the only American breakfast joint in West Bellevue.

Pictures of the owner’s family are mounted on the walls alongside University of Washington memorabilia and a random wood parrot.
Their potato pancakes are legendary. Don’t shy away from the sour cream and applesauce on the side. They make much better partners than maple syrup.

Kids might enjoy the pigs in a blanket. Sausage links wrapped up in pancakes, ensure the flavors mix.

While most items on the menu satisfy breakfast cravings, very few items sing. They’re also priced on the high side, especially for the portion sizes.

What makes Chace’s isn’t the pancakes, it’s the people.

Paddy Coyne’s
Like most Irish food, breakfast at Paddy Coyne’s dominates with meat and potatoes.

Rashers, a thick form of Irish bacon, and bangers, big breakfast sausages, stay true to their Irish roots. Try pairing them with red potatoes and eggs, and skip the plates.

For the inordinately hungry, the Irish Breakfast, a plate loaded with about eight different things, is also a tribute to culture. The baked beans and broiled tomato are unusual for an American breakfast, but fitting.

The soda bread is sweet and dense like pound cake, and served with orange marmalade butter.

A favorite is the corn beef hash. The corned beef is chopped so finely its hard to see the potatoes, but top that goodness with fried eggs and a generous scoop of hollandaise, and it’s indisputably the epitome of satisfying breakfast food.

While the breakfast burrito is tasty, don’t waste the meal on something others can do better.

Piroutte Cafe
Hidden in an ally off Main Street, Piroutte Cafe offers French favorites for an American breakfast.

Once a tea house five years ago, delicate China tea cups still line a cabinet by the espresso machine. The cafe is bright and filled with European nick-nacks.

The fruit crepes are a warm welcome on a cool morning. When possible, try to order what fruit is in season, as all the fillers are made from scratch.

Most of the crepes are thicker than a true Frenchman might like, but being heavier they can hold more goodies.

The Piroutte Crepe, a namesake, is loaded with veggies. However, it’s under seasoned. I would have enjoyed some fresh herbs or garlic.
Simple is better for the omelets, try the ham and swiss. The eggs are both firm and moist, and the cheese is gooey.

Our cappuccinos came out like lattes, but they tasted good nonetheless.

The major drawback to Piroutte is the wait. On a busy day, the tables don’t fill up, but there is still a 45 minute wait for food.

Still, for those patient enough to sip on tea, it’s a pleasant place to wait.

Z’Tejas Southwestern Grill will raise money for Bellevue LifeSpring with its annual Chile Fest Sept. 6-25.

Chile Fest is an annual celebration that pays tribute to the harvest of the chilies in Hatch, New Mexico. During this time, Z’Tejas offers a special menu. With the sale of each entree, Z’Tejas donates $1 to Bellevue LifeSpring, formerly Overlake Service League.

Bellevue LifeSpring promotes stability, self-sufficiency and independence for those in need in the Bellevue community through programs and services that feed, clothe, shelter and educate. Volunteers will be at Z’Tejas Sept. 6 to answer questions about the cause.

The special Chile Fest menu includes:

Two appetizers:

- Chile and Onion Rings: Hatch New Mexico Chile rings and fresh onion straws dipped in buttermilk and seasoned flour, flash-fried, topped with queso fresco and served with prickly pear chipotle BBQ sauce and ranch dressing ($7.99)

- Prickly Pear Glazed Meatballs*: Beef and chorizo meatballs smothered in a prickly pear chipotle BBQ sauce, served with crispy Hatch New Mexico Chile and fresh onion rings ($10.99) *Dinner menu only

Four dinner entrees:

- Chicken Tinga Rellenos:  Smoked chicken marinated in tinga sauce, stuffed into Hatch New Mexico Chiles, flash-fried, topped with chipotle sour cream and queso fresco, in a green chile sauce, served with nopalitos salad ($12.99)

- Ancho Trout:  Ancho bacon panko crusted ruby trout, topped with a mesclun mix salad, avocados, onions, tomatoes and queso fresco in an apricot dressing and green chile aioli  ($17.99)

-Jambalaya Farfalle:  Bay scallops, smoked chicken, andouille and pesto marinated shrimp in creole sauce with farfalle pasta, peas, ancho chiles, topped with queso fresco ($18.99)

- Green Chile Carne Guisada:  Chile beef guisada, mixed with red and yellow peppers and Hatch New Mexico Chiles in a green chile sauce, topped with cilantro and queso fresco, served in a cast iron skillet with hot flour tortillas ($ 13.99)

Four lunch entrees:

- Chile Chicken Salad: Chile glazed chicken atop a mesclun mix with tomatoes, red onions, avocados, pickled Hatch New Mexico Chiles and chipotle peppers, tossed in an apricot dressing, topped with queso fresco ($12.99)

- Chicken Tinga Rellenos:  Smoked chicken marinated in tinga sauce, stuffed into Hatch New Mexico Chiles, flash-fried, topped with chipotle sour cream and queso fresco, in a green chile sauce served with nopalitos salad ($11.99)

- Jambalaya Farfalle:  Bay scallops, smoked chicken, andouille and pesto marinated shrimp in creole sauce with farfalle pasta, peas, ancho chiles, topped with queso fresco ($16.99)

- Corona Pork Enchiladas: Pork braised in Corona beer and Jack cheese, topped with green chile sauce, queso fresco and chipotle purée, served with sweet corn rice and borracho beans ($10.99)

Two drink specials:

- Dobel Diamond Smash:  Maestro Dobel Tequila, Herradura Agave Nectar and muddled lemon and mint leaves ($8.50)

- Guacamole Margarita:  Hornitos Reposado, avocado, fresh lime juice, jalapeño mint syrup with an onion salt rim and garnished with salsa fresco ($8.50)

Dessert:

- Sweet Ancho Cake:  Shredded sweet potato, ancho chile, rum soaked raisins, and walnuts layered with green chile custard and topped with jalapeño mint cream cheese frosting ($6.25)

Z’Tejas is located in the lodge on the third level of Bellevue Square; (425) 467-5911; www.ztejas.com.

Story by Erik Skopil | Bibimbap photos by Chad Coleman

Most Oma Bap newcomers stare blankly at the menu. They aren’t quite sure what the Korean names of the dishes mean, or what they’re getting themselves into.

That’s exactly what owner Peter Pak hoped for. 

Pak’s targeted demographic for his downtown restaurant: People with “little to no Korean experience.” He found a perfect fit in Bellevue. Upon opening in June, Oma Bap was the first to offer this type of ethnic fare in the area. But it may not be alone for long. As foodie and Epicurious.com editor-in-chief Tanya Steel put it, “Korean is America’s next big cuisine.”

In the Northwest, teriyaki, pho, and Din Tai Fung’s famous xiao long bow have all taken turns in the limelight. Why wouldn’t Oma Bap’s hearty Bibimbap dish be next?

These days, people are more open to trying different ethnic foods, specifically, Asian foods, Pak says.  “We thought the timing was perfect.”

Oma Bap delivers Korean-inspired food in a laid-back atmosphere with Chipolte-like precision and speed.

Pak recommends their signature bibimbap (bee-beem-bop), rice served with a variety of vegetables, a sunny-side-up egg and your choice of protein, covered in a hot-pepper Gochujang sauce.

It’s the dish that won over the hearts of Bellevue High School kids, who gushed over its deliciousness in their school newspaper.

“One day there was a group staring at the menu and I convinced them to try it,” Pak says. “Then they brought in another friend, and another friend and another friend.”

Boasting almost an entire day’s helpings of veggies, Bibimbap is a healthy alternative to other quick and inexpensive fare.

“You probably wouldn’t eat all of these vegetables if they were separated on a plate.” Pak says. “Even though they’re all in there you don’t taste the individual flavors.”

He’s probably right. The conglomeration of greens, as well as oranges, whites, browns and purples, mixed with the marinated meats and Gochujang sauce, blend together harmoniously.

This taste is also the result of the diner’s turning and mixing of ingredients with chopsticks (or, if you must, a fork), to create a dish tailor-made to a specific palate. In fact, the restaurant’s website features instructional videos to teach the novice bibimbap connoisseur the perfect stir.

Ironically, Pak, a second-generation Korean American doesn’t have a culinary background. The Syracuse, New York native graduated with a marketing degree before starting his own construction and remodel business in Washington D.C.

Because of a struggling real estate market, he began to discuss possible business ventures with his two brothers. None of them had food backgrounds, but, the concept of a Korean-inspired reataraunt was seemingly too innovative not to pursue.

While plans to open a second location aren’t in the works, it seems the Korean trend will only pick up steam.

“The whole goal is to expand into a multiple-unit restaurant.” Pak says. “A handful of times a day, someone comes in and says ‘I’ve been to the other location’ or ‘This is from California, right?’ And I’ll say ‘No it’s established right here in Bellevue.’ People already assume that it’s a chain.”

For more information, go to omabap.com.

The tiny dining room and bright round sign outside Max’s World Kitchen might mislead passersby into thinking it’s just another lunch spot on Front Street in Issaquah.

Unbeknownst to them, they’re missing out on a gem that has local foodies lining up.

They might also overlook Chef Edna Noronha, who graduated top of her class from the nation’s most prestigious culinary school, Culinary Institute of America.

She celebrated Max’s first year this June.

Raised in Goa, India, Noronha’s cooking sticks true to her Portuguese and Indian roots. Her mom still makes her curry powder, a collection of 26 spices.

She’s a perfectionist about the taste of her food, but so low-key she uses her silver valedictorian prize bowl for jellybeans.

In addition to a couple curries, she offers a take on British Colonialism – fish and chips with a thin batter that offers crispness without hiding the fresh Alaskan cod.

“I want to feel the fish,” Noronha says.

She couldn’t help but add some heat, a pinch of cayenne, in the tartar sauce. The fish tacos are built in layers. The dry cabbage is topped with a creamy white dressing slightly sweetened with honey. The house-made hot sauce is just enough to warm the mouth and bring balance to sweet and sour.

The menu is filled with signature dishes, some she’s carried from her childhood.

For dinner, try the African chicken with piri sauce. She leaves the skin on the boneless chicken breasts, keeping it moist. It’s blackened on a grill and finished off in the oven. Watch out for the “hot” piri sauce, unless you need something to clean out your sinuses.

All of the puff pastry is made in house, making her pastries fluffy and flakey. Try the one stuffed with chicken curry, it’s like a hot pocket made in heaven.

The menu also has some Asian dishes.

It’s surprising that she can have such a diverse menu, and execute everything so well, says Norma Rosenthal, a regular at Max’s. “We haven’t found a single dish there that we didn’t love.”

Issaquah has a lot of chain food options, but it doesn’t have many chef-owned restaurants, she says. “It’s one of those hidden treasures that people just don’t know about.”

Most customers take their orders to go, but there are three small tables and a bar facing the street.

She also has a selection of local beers and Portuguese wine. Noronha’s Portuguese influence comes from Goa, which was once colonized by Portugal.

Growing up watching American film, she decided as a girl she was going to the U.S. One of 11 children, her siblings laughed at the thought.

She was working in Dubai, when she earned a student visa to study business in California. Noronha married soon after graduating, and stayed in the country.

Still swearing that her mother is a better cook, she says her pallet developed when her mom continually asked her to taste food. She chose a career in business and got a job working in credit collections, when she began bringing in food for her coworkers. It was so tasty, they asked her to cater an event.

She then realized her greatest pleasure is making people full and satisfied, she says. “It’s like a mother cooking for her kids.” She was in her mid-40s, when she decided to go to culinary school.

“I told my mom, I have to do it. I only have one lifetime,” she says. “I’m in the greatest country in the world, you go after your dreams.”
She worked at a couple nice restaurants after graduating, before asking her husband to buy her a place. They purchased Remmy’s Catering three years ago.

She opened Max’s in the storefront of Remmy’s a year ago, but kept the large kitchen for catering.

The cafe is named affectionately after her German Shepherd, she says. “He tastes all my food.”

Max’s World Cafe
212 Front Street N., Issaquah
425-391-8002
Open 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-8 p.m., Tuesday-Saturday

Story by Nat Levy | Photo by Chad Coleman

Though sunshine may be rare in this part of the country, when those bright rays do shine down on all of us there is certainly no shortage of libations. Brewers around the Pacific Northwest are adept at creating flavors that suit all seasons, and summer is no exception. This time of year the darker, heavier beers gave way to lighter and smoother flavors. And the Eastside is no slouch in the summer beer competition, with several brewers creating tasty concoctions to cool you off after a hot day.

Redhook Ale Brewery – Wit
http://redhook.com/beers/wit/
Woodinville-based Redhook offers a summer special that puts a new twist on the tried and true Belgian style wheat beer. The Wit features an infusion of ginger into the mix, which gives the beer a little more bite than your average wheat selection.

Pyramid Brewing Co. – Curveball Blonde Ale
http://www.pyramidbrew.com/our-brews/curveball
Though not based on the Eastside, many residents will be familiar with this selection. It is an annual favorite of Seattle-based Pyramid, and a staple at Mariners games. Pyramid describes the beer as a “crisp, clean-tasting cold lagered ale.”

Black Raven Brewing Co. – Sunthief Kristallweizen
http://www.blackravenbrewing.com/
Redmond-based Black Raven produces some regular favorites of those at the Scene. Though not a summer-only selection, the Sunthief Kristallweizen is an outstanding light selection, perfect for any occasion. “The Sun Thief is a filtered German style wheat beer (Kristallweizen) that is rarely produced in the U.S., according to Black Raven’s website. “Light in color and alcohol, the Sun Thief features subtle banana and clove components layered onto a flavorful wheat and pilsner malt base.”

Snoqualmie Falls Brewing Co. Wildcat IPA
http://www.fallsbrew.com/
A little east of the Eastside, Snoqualmie Falls Brewing Co. features a number of light beers to help one cool off after a day in the mountains. This summer, the company is offering Pre-Prohibition Pilsner. A great summer selection that is available all year-round is the Wildcat IPA.

Issaquah Brewhouse – White Frog Ale
http://www.rogue.com/locations/rogue-breweries.php
Though the Brewhouse was bought by Oregon-based Rogue Ales, it still produces several favorites on the Eastside. The White Frog Ale, a Belgian Style Ale with tinges of banana and orange in the flavor is a favorite in the summer months. It combines the light content with a high level of flavor.

By Erik Skopil | photos courtesy of Bellevue Downtown association

When the sun finally emerges, the Eastside does, too. After all, when you’ve only got four months a year of “summer,” you embrace it in every way possible.

Restaurant owners power wash the patios, crank up the umbrellas and move tables and chairs outside. Once again, it’s time for Margaritaville.

For the Bellevue Grill, on the first green of the Bellevue Municipal Golf Course, outdoor eating usually picks up in May, when golfers finish a round and request to sit in the patio area. The restaurant features 20 seats and a scenic view of the golf course and mountains.

Salvatore Lembo, owner of Firenze Ristorante Italiano and Pizzeria Guido & Wine Bar  in Crossroads mall, says, “People want to eat outside when it’s sunny.”

That usually begins for his restaurants in June. Guido’s offers pizza while Firenze delivers on fine dining. Both have outdoor patios.  Those lucky enough to snag a spot will be pleased with the spacious outside area.

El Gaucho remains flexible with its outdoor seating, offering it whenever the sun comes out, says Kerri Lewis, director of the restaurant’s marketing.

Shaded by bright yellow umbrellas, El Gaucho’s outdoor seating can accommodate upwards of 80 people. The menu fluctuates as well.

“We try to reflect our seasonality on our daily fresh sheet,” Lewis says. “That way, we can still offer our signature El Gaucho dishes on a core menu, while taking advantage of what is currently in season or a lighter, more summery preparation on a Gaucho classic.”

Outdoor Hotspots

520 Bar and Grill
10146 Main St.
425-250-0520
Tucked away along Main Street, 520 Bar and Grill provides a comfortable outdoor patio where patrons can sip on Bloody Mary’s, enjoy fresh salads or just admire Old Bellevue.

Cypress Lounge and Wine Bar
600 Bellevue Way N.E.
425-638-1000
Guests of the Westin Hotel have  the pleasure of enjoying great food and decor at Cypress Lounge and Wine Bar.

Bellevue Grill
5500 140th Ave. N.E.
425-452-7222
Whether you’ve finished a round of golf at the Bellevue Municipal Golf Course, or just want to grab a bite, the Bellevue Grill offers a scenic view of the course’s first hole as well as the mountains.

Daniel’s Broiler
10500 N.E. Eighth St.
425-462-4662
Located on the 21st floor of the Bank of America building, Daniel’s Broiler has the highest outdoor patio area in Greater Seattle. Daniel’s is known for its happy hour, filet mignon and bacon-wrapped scallops.

El Gaucho
450 108th Ave. N.E.
425-455-2715
El Gaucho Bellevue’s outdoor patio is a spacious urban oasis of water fountains, grassy landscaped grounds and trees in the heart of the financial district, featuring a variety of seasonal and signature dishes.

Firenze Ristorante Italiano and Pizzeria Guido & Wine Bar
15600 N.E. Eighth St.
425-957-1077
Guido’s and Firenze each have an outdoor seating area where guests can enjoy some of the Eastside’s best gnocchi, pizza and ravioli.

Palomino
610 Bellevue Way N.E.
425-455-7600
Get loud and boisterous outside during happy hour at Palomino with discount  drinks, an outdoor patio and great company.

Rock Bottom Restaurant & Brewery
550 106th Ave. N.E.
425-462-9300
A fun outdoor hangout for groups looking to enjoy the sun and a couple of cold ones, and, if your stomach is grumbling, try the fried chicken to shut that tummy up.